Dr. Bailey,
How would you suggest to change anti-aging skin care going into summer? I moderately use glycolic and tretinoin/sometimes retinol during non-summer months. With skin type 1/2, living in sunny climate and suspecting that I may have carelessly (not wearing sunscreen) compromised my skin in the past, I want to be extra careful. Should I go with just mild glycolic (and of course sun screen)? Will I lose benefits I gained from tretinoin use? Marvelous site you have with very nice education!
Thank you,
Vera
Vera,
This is a very timely question as we move into summer. Yes, switching anti-aging skin care seasonally is important for maximizing results while minimizing problems. Fall, winter and spring are naturally the times of year when we can do most of the major heavy lifting for anti-aging results because we are not out in the sun as much. During that time of year, we use products, anti-aging skin peels, light treatments and laser procedures to reverse the signs of aging as these all require sun avoidance.
In the summer, unless a person is really able to keep the sun off their skin, I recommend bumping up the antioxidant skin care products and sunscreen, and dropping down on the sun sensitizing anti-aging products and procedures.
Below is what I consider to be the best daily summer anti-aging skin care regimen for skin that is exactly what you describe (fair skin, sunny climate and less than 100% sun protection).
Dermatologist Recommended Anti-aging Summer Skin Care Routine for Sun-exposed Skin:
In the morning:
1. Wash with the Clarisonic Brush and a cleanser that fits your skin type.
2. Apply Replenix CF or Green Tea Antioxidant Skin Therapy – Replenix Power of Three Cream.
3. Next apply Professional Cell Repair Serum.
4. Finally apply a mineral Zinc Oxide Sunscreen. You need one that you love so much that you WANT to use it every day. (This is why I have so many sunscreen options; there really is a product for every skin type that you CAN love!)
Click here for my favorite sunscreens.
5. If you wear makeup, dust your skin with mineral makeup for its light-scattering benefits.
At night I recommend applying the Replenix CF or Power of Three Cream again and the Professional Cell Repair Serum, but switching from tretinoin or glycolic acid to a deeply hydrating moisturizer such as Daily Moisturizing Face Cream Oily to Normal Skin or Daily Moisturizing Face Cream Dry to Normal Skin.
Only if it’s possible to do a good job sun protecting your facial skin is it okay to continue using glycolic acid or tretinoin; both glycolic acid and tretinoin make skin more prone to sun damage including the lower strength glycolic acid products with higher pH unfortunately.
The key is sun protection. With skin, you can always tell how well sun protection is working because, if sun damage is happening, there will be tanning. If there is any tanning of your skin then both glycolic acid and tretinoin need to be stopped for the summer. It’s just not worth the risk. Yes, some results will be lost. I personally have learned that when I go on a snorkeling vacation I can’t entirely keep the sun off my skin, even with reapplication of sunscreen and other precautions, so I stop my tretinoin and glycolic acid skin care about a month before, and my skin looks like it!
If, on the other hand, activities are not causing your skin to tan, then it may well be okay to continue glycolic acid and/or tretinoin in the summer. (Check with your dermatologist.) I do and I’m able to be outside all day and keep my skin tan free by reapplying sunscreen or wearing sunscreen layered with mineral makeup on top, wearing a hat and trying to stay in the shade as the sun moves during the day. It’s not the most spontaneous, I’ll admit, but to me it’s personally worth it!
Stopping the glycolic acid and/or tretinoin skin care, plus getting sun exposure means that inevitably your dead skin cells will build up on your skin’s surface as will uneven pigmentation. Your skin won’t look nearly as good as it does when you’re using tretinoin and glycolic acid. Having regular facials aimed at deep pore cleansing and anti-aging can help with a nice “buff and polish” though. Then, when fall rolls around, it’s possible to just work really hard to whip your skin back into shape again. A great way to do that is by using the Obagi Nu Derm System for 4 months. In my practice, Obagi Nu Derm is almost as seasonal as the fall equinox.
It’s also possible to quickly regain results in the fall by starting some of the really effective anti-aging procedures that counter the damage of summer’s sun on your skin. This means starting a series of procedures like IPL (we call this BBL in my office), facial peels, microdermabrasion, ablative Micro Laser Peels or Profractional Laser treatments.
So, it’s a good news/bad news answer. Yes, we lose some of our anti-aging skin care results when we stop our anti-aging skin care routine. But, we have so many highly effective options that we can rapidly regain our results when we start up our products and add some of the great procedure options too.
Warm Regards,
Cynthia Bailey MD, Dermatologist
If you have questions about skin care or skin health, please send them to me using the Contact Dr. Bailey button at the top of the page.
Disclaimer: Please realize that availing yourself of the opportunity to submit and receive answers to your questions from Dr. Bailey does not confer a doctor/patient relationship with Dr. Bailey. The information provided by Dr. Bailey is general health information inspired by your question. It should not be a substitute for obtaining medical advice from your physician and is not intended to diagnose or treat any specific medical problem (and is not an extension of the care Dr. Bailey has provided in her office for existing patients of her practice). Never ignore your own doctor’s advice because of something you read here; this information is for general informational purpose only.
Hi Dr Bailey
Last time I was in your office I mentioned my “burkha” habits when out in the sun. You mentioned snorkling, which I love. My snorkling habit has long been to go out into the water covered up from hairline to toes. I wear a long sleeved turtleneck, long leggings or tights, with a tight one piece swim suit over to hold it all together. On my feet I wear dive boots that the tights or leggings tuck into, and my flippers over them. I am always the only one on the boat without sun exposure on my skin, and the ability to snorkle all day if I like. I pass this on to you as a success story…and why you don’t find anything to burn off of my back!
Yours
Kitty
Dr Bailey,
Thanks very much for making me your blog’s star
I will probably hate how my skin will look without chemical exfoliation (just like you say). Will I be less sun sensitive if I use glycolic less often and stop tretinoin for summer with no plans to be in the sun?
In your other post you sound encouraging about use of Clarisonic. As I see in your pictures you skin even though you say it’s sensitive, doesn’t look like it’s easily compromised. In my case even when I use microfiber cloth – GENTLY – sometimes skin turns pinkish. That’s why I’m afraid to try Clarisonic even though it sounds like it can improve cleansing routine. What would you say? Do cleansing cloths not clean pores too well?
Thank you.
Hello Vera,
Your question was a great one, thanks! I don’t think the sun sensitivity mechanism of action with glycolic acid is fully understood so I can’t say. Safest is to just avoid it.
Also, many people’s pores are ‘self cleaning’ and don’t need extra Clarisonic help to look clean; so if the look of clean pores is the goal then a cloth, or even finger tips may be good enough for facial washing. It’s the folks with the troublesome, large and clogged pores who’s pore problems visually benefit from the Clarisonic over exfoliating cloths in my experience. I do see cleaner pores when they start using the Clarisonic compared with a microfiber cloth or facial buf puf sponge.
That said, Clarisonic has interesting data on enhanced penetration of skin care products when people start using the system. Again though, some people have such permeable skin that it’s impossible to say that the increased product penetration would matter, and as you say, it may be that some skin types won’t tolerate the friction of a Clarisonic. I have not seen that but it’s still possible.
Dr Bailey,
Thanks very much for all your feedback. Now I get who can really benefit from Clarisonic: those with easily clogged pores. I think I’ll give delicate brush a chance even if not every day after summer is over intrigued by product penetration findings. Thanks again.
Hi DR Bailey, thank you for the advice. I am travelling to Bangkok for the summer and I hope your tips does work. I will try my best to stay out of the sun as much as possible.
Hi Dr. Bailey,
Nice post. I noticed you talked about using Obagi Nu Derm System. I am wondering if you are concerned about using Hydroquinone on your patients with all the new reported risks. I know many people are switching to other lighteners (kojic acid, high dose vitamin c, licorice root, etc).
I am curious about your thoughts on this.
Thanks!
Yes and no, the difference being in the duration of treatment. I almost never like having my patients use hydroquinones for long term use. In my practice we use Obagi Nu Derm like a procedure in that people are on it for 3 to 4 months, then they stop. I’ve never seen any skin care regimen that’s more effective than Obagi Nu Derm for evening out skin pigment and that’s why we use it. After the Nu Derm treatment I then use other skin lightners to maintain results such as vita c, glycolic acid and tretinoin. Kojic acid, licorice root and arbutin are also lightening agents and I sometimes include those, but their results are more subtle.
Dr Bailey, because of you I will be trying out the Clarisonic brush. I too don’t really buy into hype…I try to stick with the bare basic things that have been tried and tested such as sunscreen, retinoids but your endorsement of the Clarisonic makes me want to give it a chance. I’ve been doing some research on it and noticed that you recommend the PLUS version even though they seem to the PRO version as well that seems to offer 4 speeds. Why do you prefer the PLUS over the PRO?
Hi Dr Bailey,
I’ve been reading your site but have never posted! I thought I’d ask you about Glymed Plus. I’ve been using their Age Management line with some success. I think they have a product matching every part of the regimen you just posted, actually! What do you know about it? Are these products you suggested even better; should I invest in them? My esthetician uses Glymed. What is your opinion?
Thanks. I hope this isn’t too tangential.
Caitlin
I prefer the Glytone line and the one Glycolix Cream for glycolic acid products based on their formulation, pH, free acid content, ingredient list and results. I’ve examined the skin of people using many different AHA products and I always think the best results come from the products that I have on my site, that’s why I limit the site to just those products.
The Plus is the version Clarisonic has made available for online sales, the Pro is for in office person to person sales through skin care professionals. They are essentially the same system plus or minus the body brush. When you see a retailer selling Pro online they are not supposed to, it’s against Clarisonic policy and we have to agree to a contract to that effect when we become retailers. That is a good way to screen the ethics of retailers, if they sell the Pro online then they are willing to break a contract. You can call our office and buy the Pro over the phone if that is the system you want, we do not sell it online though. Clarisonic said that selling it person to person over the phone is in-keeping with their policy.
Hi Dr Bailey,
I just discovered your site and have been soaking in all the valuable information you’re giving! Thanks so much!
I have a question about the routine you recommended. I was wondering why we’d apply the Replenix CF or Power of Three Cream before the CRS Vit C serum?
It is my understanding that serum is generally lighter than cream and whatever is lighter should be applied first, generally? Is this not a correct assumption?
The other question I have is regarding glycolic acid. I notice you recommend the Glycolix Elite Facial Cream 15% but not the 20%. Instead, for the 20%, you have the Glytone Facial Cream Step 3. Is the Glytone better than the Glycolix Elite for the 20%?
Finally, a question about Obagi. You’ve mentioned various times that most people, yourself included, cannot tolerate the use of tretinoin and glycolic acid at the same time.
The Obagi routine consists of Exfoderm Forte which contains glycolic and lactic acid in the morning and tretinoin at night.
Won’t this cause a lot of irritation to the skin? And if the skin really cannot tolerate it, will eliminating Exfoderm Forte from the routine still yields results?
Do you use both the Exfoderm Forte and tretinoin when you are on the Obagi routine?
Once again, thanks for all the valuable information you’re giving on your site!! It’s much appreciated!!
Hello Lee, lots of good questions. Serums sometimes contain oils and those can prevent absorption of more water soluble ingredients. CRS has dimethicone which acts like an oil in this regard. Thus, Replenix first.
Regarding the glycolic acid products, no they are not the same, Glycolix has a lighter texture on the skin. Most people find the Glycolix 15% the sweet spot so I never added the 20%. That said, I’ve had 20% Glytone in the office for about 20 years. When someone is ready for 20% I often find that they are either dry, thus appreciate the Glytone oils, or oily and appreciate the totally light texture of the Glytone Exfoliating Lotion. That has given me enough options and I’ve never needed to add Glycolix 20%. I may at some point.
The Exfoderm I use and recommend for most of my patients is not the Forte, it’s just called Exfoderm. It has phytic acid. Only the most tolerant skin types can handle the Forte. Plus, when the skin is in a sensitive phase I have my patients only put the Exfoderm where they can tolerate it (usually lateral face) and/or skip that day. Yes we get great results minus the red peely inflammatory drama that some people experience with Nu Derm. We are just patient and allow the skin to adjust to the ingredient combination, which it usually does.
hi Dr Bailey,
I just wanted to thank you for taking the time to answer my questions. I really love all the useful information you’re sharing with us!
Thank you for this information, is there anything that i can use to protect my face from pimples?
aden johns
Yes, please read the information in the acne category of this blog.
Perfect advice to take into account for summer, although we’re not quite getting the sun we’d hoped for in England yet haha. If it does eventually break through this cloud and rain I’ll be ready for it. Thanks for the routine advice. I’ll remember my aloe vera after sun as well, I made the mistake of not taking it with me on my last holiday and suffered the consequences.
Hello Dr.Bailey,
What would skin care approach would you recommend in a humid and dry climate?
These are good ideas for blog posts. I’ll write about them at some point.