Hello Dr Bailey,
I was wondering about the pH of skincare products and their effect on multiple ingredients. For example the Citrix C/R/S Vitamin C 15% (which I use thanks to your advice), functions at a pH of under 3.5 I believe. How essential is it to wait a while before applying a moisturizer or sunscreen after? As I understand it, many moisturizers and especially sunscreens are at an alkaline pH. Does the silicone based Vitamin C absorb immediately or over the course of the day, and how does that affect the use of a follow up moisturizer and sunscreen. I would hate to negate the benefits of the ascorbic acid by using another (alkaline) product that stopped it from working correctly.
Thank you!
Brent
Dear Brent,
This is a great question and I love talking about the specifics of skin care.
Many people wonder if they need to let each of their skin care products dry before applying the next. There are so many great active ingredients to improve your skin now days and you want to use as many as possible to maximize results. Waiting for each product to dry in a layered skin care regimen is a ‘deal breaker’ though because it just takes too much time. With any good skin care regimen, it’s the regular everyday use that brings results and my products were created to be layered one right after the next. The ingredients are compatible on your skin and I’ve figured it all out for you!
With all the great active ingredients today it would be so convenient if they all could be mixed into one product. The problem is that most of them ‘don’t play well together’ in the same container, so you’re stuck layering layer them on your skin. That means product compatibility on the skin is important.
Some ‘purists’ advocate that skin care products should always be allowed to completely dry before the next is applied, and with some products this is important. My products, however, were created to be layered. There may be some negligible benefit in letting each product dry before applying the next, and when you have the time, you could do that…. but the additional benefit is minimal and the benefit derived from regular daily use of a practical regimen far outweighs skipping layers due to time constraints.
Not all skin care products are compatible though. It’s why I created my Anti-Aging Antioxidant Skin Care Kits. The Anti-Aging Antioxidant Skin Care Kit can also include glycolic acid for maximal anti aging benefit. These kits contain compatible products with all the really good anti-aging active ingredients made today – this is a powerful anti-aging skin care regimen that gets results. For years I’ve had patients layering these products:
- first the Replenix CF Cream,
- then C/R/S 15% Serum,
- then Glycolix Face Cream
- and then Citrix Sunscreen during the day
- and one of the glycolic acid facial creams at night.
I see these products work on their skin so I know that the actives are getting in and doing their job in spite of not waiting for each step to dry before applying the next.
Regarding your other question about product pH, the pH is more of a concern for long term product storage and product stability than for short term usage on your skin. Your skin begins to alter product pH the minute the product hits your skin surface. The vitamin C in the C/R/S Serum will activate faster when you apply another product over it instead of having a slower time release, but this more rapid activation is not a serious matter. Again, it’s the practical ability to layer these products every day, over a long period of time that brings the results and it’s ok to layer the products one after the other, the subtle change in their activity is negligible in the long run. Again, I see these products work for people every day and yet it’s rare that someone consistently lets each product dry before they apply the next.
Thanks for asking a really great question that many people share.
Warm Regards,
Cynthia Bailey MD, Dermatologist
Disclaimer: Please realize that availing yourself of the opportunity to submit and receive answers to your questions from Dr. Bailey does not confer a doctor/patient relationship with Dr. Bailey. The information provided by Dr. Bailey is general health information inspired by your question. It should not be a substitute for obtaining medical advice from your physician and is not intended to diagnose or treat any specific medical problem (and is not an extension of the care Dr. Bailey has provided in her office for existing patients of her practice). Never ignore your own doctor’s advice because of something you read here; this information is for general informational purpose only.
If you found this information helpful, you may also want to read:
Start The Best Anti-Aging Skin Care Now And See Results In The New Year
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Would using Replenix CF serum be OK to use instead of the cream? I chose the serum because my C product and my sunscreen are both moisturizing enough for my slightly dry/normal skin. Also, after I looked at the ingredients I felt I was getting more “bang for my buck” with the serum, since the main active ingredients are in the # 2 and #3 spot. Is there any reason why the cream works better than the serum in your opinion? Thank you!
Replenix CF serum: Purified Water, Caffeine USP, 90% Polyphenol Isolate of Camellia sinensis Leaf, Sodium Haluronate, Bisabolol, Cucumis sativus (Cucumber) Extract, Chamomilla recutitia (Chamomile) Extract, Triethanolamine, Polysorbate 20, Carbomer, Methylparaben, Diazolidinyl Urea, Tetrasodium EDTA.
Replenix CF cream: Purified water, glyceryl stearate (soy), behenyl alcohol, palmitic acid, caffeine UPS, stearic acid, lecithin, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, 90% polyphenol isolate of camellia sinensis leaf, sodium hyaluronate, bisabolol, cucumis sativus (cucumber) extract, chamomilla recutita (chamomile) extract, triethanolamine, polysorbate 20, methylparaben, diazolidinyl urea, phenoxetol, tetrasodium EDTA.
Hello Barbara,
Sorry I did not respond right away but I wanted to contact the Topix skin chemist to be absolutely sure to give you an precise answer that was based on their formulation and testing.
The concentration of actives in the serum and cream are exactly the same. Functionally they are also equally effective. This is consistent with my observations as well.
The two product bases vary to fit different skin types, with the serum being more appropriate for oily skin. I have used them both on patients and myself and I actually find the cream so light that is appropriate for all skin types. In fact, the Replenix CF Cream is so light that most people, myself included, feel that their skin does best with one of the Glycolix Face Creams on top of the Replenix CF Cream.
The important point is to be certain to buy one of the CF ‘leave on’ products because there are other Replenix products in similar containers. In my experience the Replenix CF products give the results that I describe on my web pages and blog. I have had patients buy the wrong products from other web sites, and they wonder why their results have changed.
Good question. I hope my answer helps!
Warm Regards, Cynthia Bailey MD
Hi Dr Bailey. Your post on layering is helpful. It is nice to know that it is not necessary to obsess over wait times and pH of products.
I currently use your antioxidant kit (Power of Three, CRS, Glycolix Face Cream. and sunscreen AM. For PM i use Power of Three, Glycolix Face Cream, and Retin A. I have a few extra containers of the Revaleskin Coffeeberry Night Cream which I find helps with redness. If I were to incorporate them into my regimen, what would be the best way? Can I use it over the Power of Three and before the Glycolix Face Cream? Or should I just use the Revaleskin night cream instead of the Glycolix face cream in the PM? (Not sure how essential the Glycolix face cream is), Any ideas? Thanks
Hello Brent,
It’s actually great to have a soothing cream for the nights when Retin A is too much for your skin. There are always times when a person’s skin is chapped, windburned, needs a break from Retin A, or frankly the 15 to 30 minute wait means you’ll be asleep. Those are great times to use the Revaleskin Night Cream in place of the Glycolix. Likewise, during the day, for those times when your skin is a little too sensitive for the CRS, Revaleskin could be used after the Replenix Power of Three, in place of the Glycolix.
The function of the Glycolix is to give people a means of ‘dialing in’ the right amount of hydration for the various regions of their skin. There are two Glycolix products for that purpose, one oil free the other with an oil based humectant (which I now need at my age!). Since there are infinite variations in how much hydration the different areas of our skin need on any given day, we need a product that allow us to fine tune the moisturizing in order to prevent dryness, chapping, and it’s ultimate end point which is irritation.
Great question!
Cynthia Bailey MD
I use all of the products you listed with the addition of Retin A at night. Where does the Retin A land in the list? At the end or before the final moisturizer? Do I need to wait between layers for a specific amount of time? Thanks.
Hello Deanna,
I have my patients apply Retin A at night. The Retin A goes on last. All the other products are applied and the skin is allowed to fully dry for at least 15 to 30 minutes, then the Retin A goes on. I personally keep mine at my bedside table and put it on the last thing before turning off the light. I hope that helps.